Hair of a Greek God: A Guide
Introduction
Our hair is an integral part of our daily identity. Long, healthy hair is associated with youthfullness, virility, and sexual attractiveness. Yet beyond shampoo commercials and the occassional mention of collagen supplements, most of us don’t consciously put much thought into how to keep our hair healthy, well groomed, and styled.
This article will aim to set that right. I will cover the latest scientific research and received wisdom on optimising the health, grooming, and style of your hair. From diet, supplements, lifestyle, to hair products — all the components necessary to optimise your hair health and aesthetics!
First some terminology house-keeping. Our hair, growing from so-called hair follicles, undergoes a cycle of growth (anagen), slow-down (catagen), and dormanet rest (telogen). The scalp on our heads includes various different cells, including dermal papilla, fibroblast, osteoblast-like, and other cells. Their complex coordination is necessary for normal, healthy hair growth.
So lets jump in.
Supplements, Diet, Hormones
This section will cover scientific studies on the effects of supplements, dietary factors, and hormones upon hair conditions, general hair health, and hair growth.
Micronutrients
First, lets cover some general micronutrients that are vital to hair health.
Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan and contributes towards the extracellular scaffolding around cells. It has been found, as a supplement, to increase skin hydration and increase hair strength:
Another study conducted over two months, found that a mix of 200mg hyaluronic acid, 500mg L-carnosine, and 400mg methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) significantly increased the study participant’s self-assessment of hair quality:
Collagen is the main protein that our body makes connective tissue out of. As such, 25–35% of our body’s protein consists of collagen. It is hence vital for hair growth. As the western diet contains fewer sources of collagen and glycine than humans have historically consumed (e.g. bone broth), supplementing collagen can help us obtain sufficient amounts of this important protein and its constituent amino acids such as proline and glycine. Hydrolized collagen consists of small collagen strands, which can more readily reach the scalp:
Silicon is a metalloid chemical element that is necessary for the production of the protein elastin and collagen — key structures in tissues such as hair and skin. A study found 10mg silicon for 9 months significantly increases hair resistance to breaking, hair width, and possibly hair brightness/shine:
Androgenic Balding
Androgenic hair loss is the very common condition, wherein men start undergoing a characteristic balding due to progressive hair recession of the hairline and loss of hair on the crown of the head. The primary culprit is DHT, a metabolite of the male sex hormone testosterone, the levels of which rise in the scalp as men age. DHT produces a progressive minituarization of hair follicles, and pushes hair follicles into the dormant telogen phase. Though hair transplants might be the best long-term solution for many men with androgenic hair loss, I will aim to cover the processes underlying it, and non-surgical options for treatment.
Research has found a direct correlation between male pattern baldness and scalp inflammation. There are even hypotheses that DHT might become overproduced as an anti-inflammatory reaction to this process.
The usual treatment for androgenic hair loss has been an oral administration of the anti-DHT compound finasteride, along with the anti-inflammatory minoxidil. Newer research and anecdotal reports however are starting to support topical administration of these compounds, as they cause fewer systemic side-effects (mood and libido issues are common with anti-DHT substances).
It has been noted that caffeine counters androgenic hair loss.
According to one study:
The proposed mechanism which would counteract DHT-induced miniaturization of the hair follicle include inhibition of phosphodiesterase by caffeine, which increases cAMP levels in cells and therefore promotes proliferation by stimulating cell metabolism.
Topical garlic extract similarly has shown efficacy in treating alopecia:
Finally, the plant-root extract ginseng has the effect of reducing the conversion of testosterone into DHT, and could thereby reduce male pattern hairloss:
Aging and Grey Hair
Along with male pattern hair loss, it is common for humans to undergo age-dependent loss of hair pigmentation, which manifests as greying of the hair.
Researchers believe that a key cause of such greying is related to the process of cellular senescence, consisting of aging cells entering an inactive ‘zombie-like’ state. When this happens to cells producing melanin, the result is a progressive loss of the production of pigmentation. One variable that is important to determining whether a cell enters senescence is the cell’s telomere length. Telomeres are a ‘genetic zip-lock’ at the end of our chromosomes that protect our DNA when it is being copied. The length of these telomeres is reduced as we age (some theorise to reduce risk of cancer), with very short telomeres being associated with cellular senescence.
Telomerese, an exogenous compound that lengthens telomeres, has been found to rejuvenate hair stem cells:
So knowing this, are there any supplements or drugs that can increase telomere length? Melatonin has been found to. Melatonin is a potent anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant hormone that regulates the sleep cycle. It is usually produced by the brain’s pineal gland, and its release helps us fall asleep. Its levels are progressively diminished as we age, probably due to age-dependent calcification of the pineal gland. Further, the use of screens emitting blue light (e.g. smart phones) distorts our normal phasic evening release of melatonin. Numerous apps exist to gradually reduce the blue light emitted by computers and smartphones.
In fact, a combination of melatonin and vitamin C was shown in a study of androgenic hair loss to increase hair thickness and density, and reduce hair loss:
General nutrition can also offset age-induced hair dysfunction. Iron, folate, vitamin B12, vitamin D, and selenium were found to offer benefits in reducing premature greying of the hair.
Thyroid, Growth Hormone, IGF1
Next, we will look at general growth and metabolic factors. Specifically, thyroid hormone, growth hormone (GH), and insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF1).
Thyroid hormone (in the form of T3 and T4) is a hormone secreted by the thyroid gland, and has the general effect of increasing an organism’s metabolism. It increases both the rate of protein synthesis and protein breakdown within cells. In hair cells, it has been found to increase the rate of hair growth and modulate hair stem cell activity. Two important factors, for the general population, for maintaining healthy thyroid levels are obtaining sufficient iodine levels from one’s diet (e.g. sea salt) as well as consuming sufficient calories per day (especially carbohydrates).
Growth hormone (GH) is a protein that has many functions in the body. The relevant ones for our purposes though, are that it is a potent releaser of insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF1). IGF1 is a master growth factor. In hair, it increases the anagen (growth) phase of the hair follicle. Its effects lead to increased hair thickness, strength, and growth speed.
This is seen most clearly in Laron’s syndrome, a condition wherein the body has very low IGF1 levels. The outcome is a patchy and twisted hair pattern, slow hair growth, thin hair, and trichorrhexis nodosa (uneven hair growth leading to weak points that break easily). Conversely, patients undergoing growth hormone replacement therapy (which leads to a concommitant rise in IGF1 levels) experience increased hair growth and thickness, and some undergo hair re-darkening.
The body increases both GH and IGF1 levels when calorie and micronutrient level consumption is adequate. Both carbohydrates and protein (especially animal products) have been shown to correlate with IGF1 levels. Specific foods and micronutrients, such as dates/plums/prunes, soy, vitamin A, and dairy, have also been found to increase IGF1.
In terms of supplements, the organosulfur compound methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) was shown to increases GH → IGF1 receptor signalling:
Similarly, topical application of menthol/peppermint oil as well as caffeine have been demonstrated to boost IGF-1 levels in the scalp.
Such an effect is also seen with ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), which in one study produced elongated hair shafts and growth of dermal papilla, fibroblast, and osteoblast-like scalp cells. In the study they found a 3.8-fold increase in IGF1 within scalp tissue.
Other Hormones
To wrap-up our review of hormonal effects, lets look at some stragglers.
One study found that high prolactin levels can cause hair loss. Prolactin is a hormone associated with lactation, though it is found in both men and women. An exogenous inhibitor of prolactin secretion is dopamine, and hence drugs that increase dopamine levels might be efficacious for controlling the negative effects of prolactin on hair. The same study found that aromatase inhibitors, i.e. drugs that reduce the conversion of testosterone into estrogen, can also cause hair loss. Hence, having a normal level of estrogen might be a precondition for hair health.
Next, bimatoprost. Bimatoprost is an eye-pressure medication that was found to unexpectedly produce growth of eye-lashes. The drug is very new, and studies have only come out in the past few years. It operates through the prostamide system, which has been connected to balding. It seems to offer a novel approach to treating balding, that works through a non-sex-hormone pathway.
Lifestyle
Having reviewed nutrition, supplements, drugs for hair — and hormones connected to them — we will now move onto lifestyle factors.
Ever wonder why there seems to be a ‘surfer look’? What I mean is thick, wavy hair with highlights. Aside from the scruffy look produced by salt water, it might be sunlight. Sunlight increases vitamin D levels in the scalp, producing healthier scalps.
Near infra-red light has also been shown to increase collagen synthesis in human cells (though this has been studied mainly in skin cells). Such near infra-red light is produced throughout the day by sunshine. Aside from this, UV in sunlight bleaches hair slightly, producing characteristic natural highlights (especially visible for people with medium-dark hair).
It might also be a stress-free life that is vital. The stress hormone cortisol is implicated in deteriorating the health of hair by pushing the immune system and hormone levels out of balance, and direct negative effects on hair follicles. Stress is the silent killer!
As seen from the supplements we reviewed above that work through blood-flow (menthol, caffeine, garlic), blood flow is another trick for maintaining nutrition and repair of the scalp. One means of hacking this is through head massages, which promote blood flow to the head. Aside from this, numerous other approaches are available such as scalp rollers that contain small pricks that increase blood flow, or one can simply promote blood-flow through hand-stands and other exercises (such as general cardio).
Hair-care
At this point, we’ve gone through the fundamentals of achieving fast-growing, healthy hair. Yet all that is for naught if the hair is not properly maintained.
So here are some guidelines from two scientific articles on general hair care.
I’ll first quote insights from the following 2015 article:
Some guidelines for shampooing and conditioning:
Shampoo must aim the scalp more than a hair. […] Appling the shampoo on the top of the head will increase hair friction and cause hair tangling. After full rinse of the shampoo, the hair must be gently towel dried, and the conditioner should be applied on the hair length avoiding the scalp. The conditioner has to be completely rinsed out. Application of hair conditioners after shampoo will lower inter fiber friction and reduce combing forces. […] Many products may be used to lubricate and seal cuticle cells, such as silicones (dimethicone and aminoterminal silicones) and vegetable oils. Grooming with a hair dryer or flat iron requires a silicone heat protector that will spread the heat along the hair fiber surface avoiding water boiling and the development of hair bubbles.
And here, some insights about hair weathering:
Hair is porous and damaged hair is intensely so. Water absorption causes the hair shaft swelling. Excessive or repeated chemical treatment, grooming habits, and environmental exposure produce changes in hair texture and if extreme can result in hair breakage. These changes can be seen microscopically as “weathering” of the hair shaft and contribute to tangling, and frizzing. […] Normal weathering is due to daily grooming practices. When the hair is extremely weathered and chemically treated, there may be scaling of the cuticle layers, removal of the 18-MEA and cuticle crack. If the cuticle is removed, the exposure of the cortex and further cortex damage may lead to hair fiber fracture. The use of hair cosmetics may restore hair cuticle damage and prevent hair breakage by reducing friction and water pick up.
The [shampoo] soap, which is also an anionic detergent, in contact with water, leaves an alkaline residue that is very harmful to the hair and skin and that precipitates in the form of calcium salts which accumulate in the hair strands, leaving them opaque and tangled. Such effects do not happen with the new anionic surfactants that are derived from the sulfation of fatty acids and analogue polioxiethilenes (alquil sulfates, alquil ether sulfates) which are smooth cleansers and cosmetically superior. The current expression “sulfateless shampoo” refers to a preparation without the anionic surfactant.
That is, sulfateless shampoos are preferable. Now, about anionic surfactants:
Anionic surfactants are characterized by a negatively-charged hydrophilic polar group. Examples of anionic surfactants are ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium myreth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, sodium stearte, sodium lauryl sulfate, alpha-olefin sulfonate, ammonium laureth sulfate. Although very good in removing sebum and dirt, anionic surfactants are strong cleaners and may cause an increase on electrical negative charges on the hair surface and increase frizz and friction.
If your shampoo contains these strong surfactants, you should consider using the shampoo sparingly.
Finally, as for oils:
Oils play an important role in protecting hair from damage. Some oils can penetrate the hair and reduce the amount of water absorbed in the hair, leading to a lowering of swelling. […] Applying oil on a regular basis can enhance lubrication of the shaft and help prevent hair breakage. […] Among three oils, coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce the protein loss for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a prewash and postwash grooming product. Both sunflower and mineral oils do not help in reducing the protein loss from hair.
In summary, coconut oil showed the largest benefit for reducing hair damage through protein loss.
The second is a 2017 study that looked into hair aging and wear-and-tear:
It cautions against excessive shampooing of the hair, as it removes the protective oils of the scalp:
Shampooing daily cleanses off the protective layer of sebum that covers the hair, causing the shaft to dry out so it easily gets statically charged and consequentially more prone to friction.
And it specifically warns about sodium lauryl sulfate:
Sodium lauryl sulfate was used almost exclusively in shampoos several years ago and is more irritating and damaging to the follicle compared to sodium laureth sulfate. Currently, the majority of shampoos contain sodium laureth sulfate due to its moisturizing properties
The article recommends baby shampoos, as they are “usually mild, less irritating and are suitable for daily use”.
Aside from these insights, additional products like hair serum and a good conditioner will have a significant impact on promoting and maintaining hair quality. Hair serums, such as Ordinary’s “Multi-peptide Hair Serum for Hair Density” (the one I currently use) contain numerous micronutrients, growth factors, and anti-DHT compounds for boosting the growth and thickness of hair. Many conditioners contain numerous keratin, collagen, and other proteins and oils that potentially repair hair and stop its rate of deterioration.
Grooming
We’re near the finish line. By now you should have healthy, thick, well-maintained hair. So now we just need the finishing touches: grooming.
How exactly one grooms their hair will dependend on one’s hair type as well as aims. For people with flat hair, thickening lotions and volumising products as well as a hair-cut with layers will give the appearance of thicker, wild, hair.
Similarly hair gel and wax can be used to style the hair into a ‘cleaner’ style, popular with businessmen. Here’s a helpful guide for such a look.
Hair texturizing sprays will help produce stand-up styles that don’t look to greasy and hold for longer. This is best combined by using a towel to gently wipe off grease from the hair before applying the product, or even dry shampoo.
Adding a sea-salt spray to your arsenal will produce the classic surfer-boy look, as it makes your hair clump together more and produces a more curly look:
In terms of hair-cuts and styles, the right approach depends on your facial features. Shorter hair makes one look more masculine, but it can accentuate weak points such as the jaw, eye-brow ridge or chin. Longer hair can conversely look more ‘beautiful’, but comes at the risk of looking messy or overtly feminine for one’s own taste. A longer fringe can hide a large forehead or soft eye-brow ridge, and longer sides will make the face look more round. Medium length sides maximise the appearance of the face being wide:
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